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Fuse Blows only when steering is full lock

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Autonoob

DIY
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Hey guys,

I'm 17 and had just bought my first car a 2005 Mitsubishi Triton and noticed whilst driving at night that the 10A fuse for my guage cluster bulbs and parker bulbs had blown. After replacing the fuse, after driving for about 3 mins the fuse blew again. I did some testing and the fuse would never blow when the car sat at idle, or when driving straight with minor turning, the fuse only blew when the steering was full hard lock. I have taken part of the dash and steering column cover off to check for bare / melted wires but nothing stuck out to me. Would appreciate any ideas as to why this would happen and possible solutions, I am by no means an electrical expert but do have basic knowledge and access to a multimeter / soldering iron etc and would love to try and sort this out myself before taking it to an auto electrician, thanks
 
i would think that something is shorting out when applying full lock.some missing insulation on a cablein close proximity to the metalwork of some part of the steering.
 
i would think that something is shorting out when applying full lock.some missing insulation on a cablein close proximity to the metalwork of some part of the steering.
I thought this as well, but all the wires near the steering column seem to be fine and fully insulated, I'll give it another look thanks for the reply
 
Sounds like a pump problem, I suspect the pressure relief valve in the pump isn't working when the steering is on full lock and the pressure that is building up is stalling the pump and blowing the fuse
 
Sounds like a pump problem, I suspect the pressure relief valve in the pump isn't working when the steering is on full lock and the pressure that is building up is stalling the pump and blowing the fuse
I was thinking the same.
As the pump stalled it would begin to draw current, which would increase and then pop the fuse.

Does it do it with the lights turned off?
 
Need to find out if the dash lamps are on the same fuse as the power steering pump for starters.
 
Check around the front wheels/wheel arch liners. Some cars have fairly minimal clearance, and coupled with the odd front end bump in fifteen years, pushing the bumper assembly back slightly, there might be contact and a trapped lighting wire behind the liner.
 
No quite the same, but I had this problem on a ride on mower, every time it turned left, problem turned out to be the steering arm contacting the top of the coil, I am not saying that is your problem, but do you get a back fire at any time during the cutting out of the engine?
Does the engine stutter and stop or just cut out?
Need to establish if this is ignition or fuel related.
 
No quite the same, but I had this problem on a ride on mower, every time it turned left, problem turned out to be the steering arm contacting the top of the coil, I am not saying that is your problem, but do you get a back fire at any time during the cutting out of the engine?
Does the engine stutter and stop or just cut out?

It's the lighting fuse that blows Mike.
 
[Problem fixed]

Thanks everyone for the suggestions, I had a closer look at the custom LED lights on the bullbar and followed the wiring, the person that had installed it had done a shocking job and left two spade bits bare near the wheel arches, isolating these fixed the issue, thanks again for all the suggestions
 
[Problem fixed]

Thanks everyone for the suggestions, I had a closer look at the custom LED lights on the bullbar and followed the wiring, the person that had installed it had done a shocking job and left two spade bits bare near the wheel arches, isolating these fixed the issue, thanks again for all the suggestions

Nice one! Glad you found it.
 
Waiting to hear back from a commercial electrical company about an apprenticeship so hopefully will be doing this for a long time from now

5 years now and you'll be on here moaning about stuff like the rest of us ?
 

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