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I need to run a length of steel conduit. One end it will connect into a standard 25mm BESA box, on the other end, it will go into a sharp elbow. The conduit has to thread through a hole in the floor that is very close to the wall. If I thread the conduit through the hole and then place either the BESA box or the elbow on, it stops me from being able to turn the remainder 360 to screw in the other end.

Is there a trick I don't know about when in situations like this?
 
I need to run a length of steel conduit. One end it will connect into a standard 25mm BESA box, on the other end, it will go into a sharp elbow. The conduit has to thread through a hole in the floor that is very close to the wall. If I thread the conduit through the hole and then place either the BESA box or the elbow on, it stops me from being able to turn the remainder 360 to screw in the other end.

Is there a trick I don't know about when in situations like this?
Use a running coupler (Google will help) to complicated to explain for me, not any good at drawing etc, try Google or You tube, sure you will find something to show you how it's done, good luck.
 
any apprentice woth his salt has done hundreds by hand with only his sweat as lubricant. man up. :p :p :p
 
Usually cut down to the size you need, useful when you need a short piece between female sockets that are too short to thread. Must be painted like all exposed threads.
Edit: I was well slow.
 
One more question for you guys.

When joining conduit to an external waterproof socket is it okay to use standard couplers or should I really use flanged couplers? I'm just thinking about ensuring the best waterproof seal possible. I see some flanged couplers come with rubber washers and some with lead.
 
Normally flanged couplers shouldn't have rubber washers as that will hinder the earth continuity.

If you mean joining a steel conduit to a plastic external socket then I guess replacing the soft metal seal of a flanged coupler with a rubber one is the best plan.
 

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