Discuss Advice on safety of new Consumer Unit Install in the UK Electrical Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

I know, its gone past shocking and got to upsetting now.

So should I just go through check-a-trade complaint system, or should I give him the opportunity to put it right? Or just save up for someone else to put it right?

I’m all for giving someone the chance to put something right, but he’s knowingly done that shoddy work and then issued the wrong type of certificate, that’s been hand written so it’s harder to trace back to him.

Now, that in my eyes is very deceitful. He could have quite easily used NAPIT Online to issue the correct cert and notify LABC, but he chose not to because he didn’t want to take the chance of his scheme providers seeing what he’d done.

EDIT, I think at the very least you need to have a chat with him though and ask some questions.
 
To be honest I couldn’t wait any longer myself so I’ve just nipped round to the house and pulled the floorboards (by hand) as he didn’t re fit them properly and to be honest I didn’t think it could get any worse

He had to extend the cables as they would not reach so everything your about to see is what he has done. They may be the original JBs but he has re used them and, Well. Here you go. Have a look

One of the JBs I couldn’t open because it’s so tort to the ceiling/floor plasterboard that there is no play to twist it enough to open the screw let alone move it. And this is how I found it so nothing secured all floating with bare circuits (al be it a dead old shower 6mm (doesn't look like 10mm, maybe 6mm so probably better i didnt have him re-connect it as it was running an 8.5kw shower). I asked him not to reconnect as we’re removing it for mixer shower off boiler)

I’m pretty upset to be honest. I know it was only £250 but I thought it would be done to at least a basic standard. I could have done that better if I was allowed, I’m not and he is and he has certificates telling people he is allowed to install that and why oh why oh why. Any way. Any Thoughts on the JBs?? (I say sarcastically), He couldn't even put any sleeving on the bare cpc's.

I did safely isolate before opening the JBs

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it's not clear exactly which bits he extended in that mess - any new cabling he added would be in the new colours surely? (perhaps I'm assuming too much!).

Any junction boxes that he worked on that were going under the floor should have been in Maintenance Free junction boxes - and to be honest it's so much easier to do things in Wago boxes with Wago connectors in any case that I have no idea why anyone would do anything else these days.

I assume the broken JB with the 6mm in is currently isolated completely at the consumer unit, not just turned off at an MCB? Surely that new cable (brown/blue) was not put in and left by him like that? :eek:

If it's not needed then it should be cut off or removed from that junction box so that it can't be reconnected by error in future...

JBs under the floor like this should always be mentioned on an EICR (even if only as a C3) - usually of course they are not detected because floors aren't pulled up, but in this case if he had to work on them then there's no excuse for not correcting the ones on any circuits he worked on at least - and ideally replacing the whole lot as part of the work...

I'd say it was reasonable for you to lose all faith in him at this point and point that out to check a trade etc, though I'm not sure I have great faith in their procedures, since their interest is in continuing to get payment from the people on their list.

What I find astonishing is that someone who is paying Checkatrade, NAPIT, and clearly has a tester and enough qualifications to get onto NAPITs list to start with, can possibly afford to only charge £250 for his work

He clearly doesn't value his own time or work much. As it turns out, he appears to be correct and possibly overestimating it!

Even if he thought he was being kind by undercharging and cutting corners to save costs, in fact he's just made it more expensive and time consuming to get up to a suitable standard.

In an ideal world, I'd want someone to come out and write an independent report on the state of the work that has been done (as well as the existing electrical installation). In practise, I'm not sure how that will happen though, unless NAPIT show some interest.

I would wait until you have heard back about the Part P notification in particularly, and then approach NAPIT directly, as well as CheckaTrade, and maybe even the local building control.

Document everything, with photographs, and be clear on what was done by him and what was already there (but that he was aware of) as it will make things easier if anything comes of it.

Someone needs to take responsibility for the fact that a registered competent person has left you with this, but the evidence suggests that no-one really wants to.

It may be something to bring to the attention of your MP/Council, etc - so that they can perhaps pass it on to the people who do want to improve standards for everyone.

The only good news is that since he seems to have done such a slipshod job, he probably hasn't done any damage that can't be put right by a COMPETENT person with a few hours of work.
 
I have a paper trail and a lot of evidence now compiled.

a) The before and after photos
b) The incorrect certificate with his name, address and signature on
c) The original contact request through check-a-trade website
d) All the text messages between us regarding appointment times, etc etc and the conversation regarding the wrong certificate.

so he will be hard pressed to say it was not him that installed it.

I have text him for his email address, so I can put it all in writing with images with regards to the problems found and see what he wants to do. Problem is it was only £250, I can imagine its going to cost 3 times that to put it right and safe, those JB's are not safe.
 
I have a paper trail and a lot of evidence now compiled.

a) The before and after photos
b) The incorrect certificate with his name, address and signature on
c) The original contact request through check-a-trade website
d) All the text messages between us regarding appointment times, etc etc and the conversation regarding the wrong certificate.

so he will be hard pressed to say it was not him that installed it.

I have text him for his email address, so I can put it all in writing with images with regards to the problems found and see what he wants to do. Problem is it was only £250, I can imagine its going to cost 3 times that to put it right and safe, those JB's are not safe.
Well done for having all that information together - it will certainly help. Do you have any invoice or proof of payment?
I would contact NAPIT and ask them for advice at this point, and see if you can send them the documents/photos etc that you have in writing.

In theory NAPIT have the power to make him come back and correct everything to suitable standards, but unless they were also willing to check and certify his work, I'm not sure I'd be comfortable with that even third hand, so I'm not surprised if you don't want him in the house again.

It's understandable that you feel pessimistic after the experiences you've had, but from what I've seen I don't think that it will be necessarily expensive to get to an acceptable standard, if you can find someone able to do it.

The consumer unit you have, even if not ideal, is capable of being installed in a compliant way - if it was mounted correctly, the cables connected correctly, and the junction boxes sorted, then a full EICR done, that should still be possible in under a day. (Assuming there aren't other things he's missed).

It may be worth getting quotes from 2 or 3 electricians and making sure they visit before they give you the figure.
 
I know, its gone past shocking and got to upsetting now.
I can believe that, and it's upsetting to see work like this.

A passing thought - Is there any way you could have an incorrect name and address? I'm just wondering if he isn't actually the person you looked up. Don't get me wrong, there are some real cowboys in CPS schemes but the price charged is so low and I struggle to see how anyone can work to this standard, make ends meet, and have any interest in remaining in a competent person scheme. By the time insurance, scheme membership, publications, calibration is factored in I can't see how he's making any money if he's in a scheme.

As above, you can complain to Napit. In theory they stand behind the quality of work and warranty it for a long time afterwards. They may uphold the complaint, but to my knowledge they can only insist the same member rectifies things - I've never known or heard of any other outcome.

Have you paid the bill yet? I'm guessing so.

I think there are two routes forwards. Either go to Napit as @Dartlec said above. Or....

You may consider writing a letter of complaint saying that there is a consensus from some other electricians that the work is not up to standard in several ways, and you would like a partial refund (total bill less Screwfix price for that CU). If he would like 3rd party arbitration then you are happy to approach Napit and Check-a-trade to obtain impartial advice and confirmation that the work is up to standard.
You are concerned about the following aspects:
-Failure to confirm that supply was in a safe condition before work started
-Unauthorised conversion of earthing system to TN
-Cables inadequately contained
-Access to live parts
-Cables inadequately supported
-Consumer unit missing parts and inadequately supported.
-Incorrect certification
-Notifiable works being carried out without notification occurring.
(I could go on)

This doesn't prevent you going to Napit if you get no response.
 
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I can believe that, and it's upsetting to see work like this.

A passing thought - Is there any way you could have an incorrect name and address? I'm just wondering if he isn't actually the person you looked up. Don't get me wrong, there are some real cowboys in CPS schemes but the price charged is so low and I struggle to see how anyone can work to this standard, make ends meet, and have any interest in remaining in a competent person scheme. By the time insurance, scheme membership, publications, calibration is factored in I can't see how he's making any money if he's in a scheme.

As above, you can complain to Napit. In theory they stand behind the quality of work and warranty it for a long time afterwards. They may uphold the complaint, but to my knowledge they can only insist the same member rectifies things - I've never known or heard of any other outcome.

Have you paid the bill yet? I'm guessing so.

I think there are two routes forwards. Either go to Napit as @Dartlec said above. Or....

You may consider writing a letter of complaint saying that there is a consensus from some other electricians that the work is not up to standard in several ways, and you would like a partial refund (total bill less Screwfix price for that CU). If he would like 3rd party arbitration then you are happy to approach Napit and Check-a-trade to obtain impartial advice and confirmation that the work is up to standard.
You are concerned about the following aspects:
-Failure to confirm that supply was in a safe condition before work started
-Unauthorised conversion of earthing system to TN
-Cables inadequately contained
-Access to live parts
-Cables inadequately supported
-Consumer unit missing parts and inadequately supported.
-Incorrect certification
-Notifiable works being carried out without notification occurring.
(I could go on)

This doesn't prevent you going to Napit if you get no response.

Great post, thank you, and thank you to every other member who has chipped in with advice...

Unfortunately I paid cash, only thing I have is a paper trail of him quoting £250 and on the same day me withdrawing £250 from cash machine (Nottraceable I know) but hey ho.

It seemed like he did it as a side job, he came at 16:30 pm and finished about 19:15 so it seemed looking back now that he did his days graft and this was a side job on the way home to earn extra spending money/beer money/....... if you get what I mean.

He had a young lad with him (Apprentice maybe?) poor lad if he is an apprentice learning from him.

The address and name on the certificate he gave does match up with whats on check-a-trade contact details and he is trading as a LTD company. <<His Name>> Ltd. so for example Joe Bloggs Ltd.

That, his phone number, LTD company reg details and check-a-trade and Napit all match, I didn't go as far as asking for his ID / driving licence to check it was him when he arrived but I'm sure it was the person named on the certs and sites. But i can imagine in the past people have created whole untraceable personas/ids to do such things..

As upset as I am with the ordeal, I suppose I will have to chalk it down to experience and try be even more thorough in future when selecting tradesmen/women.
 
Great post, thank you, and thank you to every other member who has chipped in with advice...

Unfortunately I paid cash, only thing I have is a paper trail of him quoting £250 and on the same day me withdrawing £250 from cash machine (Nottraceable I know) but hey ho.

It seemed like he did it as a side job, he came at 16:30 pm and finished about 19:15 so it seemed looking back now that he did his days graft and this was a side job on the way home to earn extra spending money/beer money/....... if you get what I mean.

He had a young lad with him (Apprentice maybe?) poor lad if he is an apprentice learning from him.

The address and name on the certificate he gave does match up with whats on check-a-trade contact details and he is trading as a LTD company. <<His Name>> Ltd. so for example Joe Bloggs Ltd.

That, his phone number, LTD company reg details and check-a-trade and Napit all match, I didn't go as far as asking for his ID / driving licence to check it was him when he arrived but I'm sure it was the person named on the certs and sites. But i can imagine in the past people have created whole untraceable personas/ids to do such things..

As upset as I am with the ordeal, I suppose I will have to chalk it down to experience and try be even more thorough in future when selecting tradesmen/women.

It may be better all round to move on, but I'd still encourage you to report it to Napit and CheckaTrade - with Napit, it might at the very least be raised at his next annual assessment and some questions asked.

If you employ someone else to sort the work, ensure they will be happy proving a Part P certificate once they have done the work. It may be possible for them to "uninstall" the CU you have, then "reinstall" it and certify it.

There are of course benefits to other options, such as Surge Protection, RCBOs etc, which a good electrician will talk through with you.
 
To be honest I couldn’t wait any longer myself so I’ve just nipped round to the house and pulled the floorboards (by hand) as he didn’t re fit them properly and to be honest I didn’t think it could get any worse

He had to extend the cables as they would not reach so everything your about to see is what he has done. They may be the original JBs but he has re used them and, Well. Here you go. Have a look

One of the JBs I couldn’t open because it’s so tort to the ceiling/floor plasterboard that there is no play to twist it enough to open the screw let alone move it. And this is how I found it so nothing secured all floating with bare circuits (al be it a dead old shower 6mm (doesn't look like 10mm, maybe 6mm so probably better i didnt have him re-connect it as it was running an 8.5kw shower). I asked him not to reconnect as we’re removing it for mixer shower off boiler)

I’m pretty upset to be honest. I know it was only £250 but I thought it would be done to at least a basic standard. I could have done that better if I was allowed, I’m not and he is and he has certificates telling people he is allowed to install that and why oh why oh why. Any way. Any Thoughts on the JBs?? (I say sarcastically), He couldn't even put any sleeving on the bare cpc's.

I did safely isolate before opening the JBs

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Shocking work. Just an FYI, 6mm is fine for an 8.5kw shower as long as the run isn't massive.
 
I’m not condoning anything this charlatan has done, but a handwritten test certificate is just as acceptable as a computer generated one… it was the way things were always done not that long ago…. And it looks like he’s attempted to fill things in… some cowboys don’t even bother.

EIC versus EICR… yeh ok… a consumer unit change should be an EIC, but an EICR shows all the same information and is (wrongfully) demanded by letting agents rather than an EIC.

To think the guy never even had a bit of green/yellow sleeving in the van….



Repeating what others have said… being listed on check a trade, my builder, even the NAPIT or NICEIC websites does not guarantee competence… however these companies may claim.

The best place to find a reliable tradesman is, as it’s always been, word of mouth.
Even the ones on here, I can’t trust them as far as I can throw ‘em…. 🤣
 
wow, this is shocking. It might be worth noting that the board is in the same configuration as is sold on Screwfix. If you have any photos of the original boards it might be useful to check if the circuits are on the correct size devices. Odd that they used a tails gland
 
wow, this is shocking. It might be worth noting that the board is in the same configuration as is sold on Screwfix. If you have any photos of the original boards it might be useful to check if the circuits are on the correct size devices. Odd that they used a tails gland

Given that cables were extended, the board could be dressed in any configuration.

Why would you consider it odd that they brought the tails in through a gland?
 
He most definitely should not have taken it, it belonged to EON. Were the off peak circuits no longer required.
 
He most definitely should not have taken it, it belonged to EON. Were the off peak circuits no longer required.

No longer required, my grandmother had old storage heaters which I had removed and a full ch system installed so no further use of economy 7 or what ever they call it now, So I should ask him for it back in case EON 'come a calling'?
 
Is replacing that broken JB under the bedroom floor for say a new wiska box and wago connectors notifiable? Am I allowed to do it?

I've been around the building industry all my working life until disability laid me up, I am competent in doing it as long as its non notifiable. As said before, I am more competent than his attempt and if it was allowed I would have done a much better job than he did.

I won't touch it if its notifiable, just checking
 
Is replacing that broken JB under the bedroom floor for say a new wiska box and wago connectors notifiable? Am I allowed to do it?
That work isn't notifiable no. Is that the circuit that is no longer needed, or is it planned to be reused for something in the future?

If it's 6mm, then Wago do 6mm lever connectors, but they are not suitable for use in their Wago boxes as a designated Maintenance Free box (for whatever reason) - Only the push fit Wago ones (773-173) are.
 
Te
That work isn't notifiable no. Is that the circuit that is no longer needed, or is it planned to be reused for something in the future?

If it's 6mm, then Wago do 6mm lever connectors, but they are not suitable for use in their Wago boxes as a designated Maintenance Free box (for whatever reason) - Only the push fit Wago ones (773-173) are.

There are 2 x 6mm circuits. one is bare and not terminated under the floorboards which was the old shower which I told him to leave out. I wont be re-suing it and will be ripping it out from the bathroom eventually. ( un-terminated 6mm shown in one of the images)

The other 6mm is the cooker circuit. Its roughly a 6 meter run from dp cooker switch up the wall to under landing floorboards through bedroom and down to that junction box just over the ceiling above the cu.

I thought 10mm was better for cooker? Now I know its 6mm I take it I should stay away from installing an induction hob when fitting the kitchen!
 
Te


There are 2 x 6mm circuits. one is bare and not terminated under the floorboards which was the old shower which I told him to leave out. I wont be re-suing it and will be ripping it out from the bathroom eventually. ( un-terminated 6mm shown in one of the images)

The other 6mm is the cooker circuit. Its roughly a 6 meter run from dp cooker switch up the wall to under landing floorboards through bedroom and down to that junction box just over the ceiling above the cu.

I thought 10mm was better for cooker? Now I know its 6mm I take it I should stay away from installing an induction hob when fitting the kitchen!
Unless the appliance is pulling over 47a, 6mm is fine.

Most induction hobs will be absolutely fine on 6mm. Some pull as little as 2kw.
 
Te


There are 2 x 6mm circuits. one is bare and not terminated under the floorboards which was the old shower which I told him to leave out. I wont be re-suing it and will be ripping it out from the bathroom eventually. ( un-terminated 6mm shown in one of the images)

The other 6mm is the cooker circuit. Its roughly a 6 meter run from dp cooker switch up the wall to under landing floorboards through bedroom and down to that junction box just over the ceiling above the cu.

I thought 10mm was better for cooker? Now I know its 6mm I take it I should stay away from installing an induction hob when fitting the kitchen!

The load a cable will safely take is dependent on the length, whether it goes through insulation, etc - but in this case the limiting factor is likely the 32A MCB that protects the circuit, which in theory gives you 7.36kW in total load.

However, some allowance is allowed for the actual demand, because every ring on the hob is unlikely to be on at full power, particularly at the same time as connected oven etc.

You may need to seek advice with specifics when the kitchen is done, but I doubt there would be much problem with fitting an induction hob, as long as it was not the 5 or 6 ring type!

Edit: swaRR got there first!
 
I’m not condoning anything this charlatan has done, but a handwritten test certificate is just as acceptable as a computer generated one… it was the way things were always done not that long ago…. And it looks like he’s attempted to fill things in… some cowboys don’t even bother.

EIC versus EICR… yeh ok… a consumer unit change should be an EIC, but an EICR shows all the same information and is (wrongfully) demanded by letting agents rather than an EIC.

To think the guy never even had a bit of green/yellow sleeving in the van….
🤣
I wonder what sort of van he had..........was there a horse pulling it?
 
It's actually a £70 board, with Type A RCDs - he really went the extra mile 😉

The gland confused me too - shows that some competence went into it, which makes the rest all the more baffling.
Probably nicked from work. I wonder if he's not qualified...just labouring with the day job. No way the to$$er's registered.
 
I’m not condoning anything this charlatan has done, but a handwritten test certificate is just as acceptable as a computer generated one… it was the way things were always done not that long ago…. And it looks like he’s attempted to fill things in… some cowboys don’t even bother.
There is handwritten and there is scrawl and the cert is definitely a piece of inaccurate scrawl
EIC versus EICR… yeh ok… a consumer unit change should be an EIC, but an EICR shows all the same information and is (wrongfully) demanded by letting agents rather than an EIC.
All down to education or more likely the lack of
To think the guy never even had a bit of green/yellow sleeving in the van….
He only charged £250 the sleeving was probably going to be an extra
Repeating what others have said… being listed on check a trade, my builder, even the NAPIT or NICEIC websites does not guarantee competence… however these companies may claim.
The way the NICEIC have gone in the last few years it amazes me they are still in business, it seems there are plenty of schemes and business lead companies not stepping up to the plate with proper vetting of those they allow on their registers and the electrical industry is embarassing itself by continuing to allow these outfits to operate
The best place to find a reliable tradesman is, as it’s always been, word of mouth.
Even the ones on here, I can’t trust them as far as I can throw ‘em…. 🤣
Finding a reliable tradesman is very different to finding one with the skills and competencies to complete the job to a standard that meets the regs and looks like it has a professional finish
 
There is handwritten and there is scrawl and the cert is definitely a piece of inaccurate scrawl

All down to education or more likely the lack of
All your points, except the one regarding earth sleeving 😉, have been regular topics on this forum for the last ten years, or more. Nothing is going to change, the infestation of our trade is too deep, as you know.
I think if they still did A, B and C certs there would now be a D cert......for all those short cutting the ABC's.
Plenty of these jokers don't even know their ABC.....but it don't matter, they're charging £250 for 3 hours of crap.
 
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My eyes are still bleeding from looking at those pics....Absolutely disgusting install, Tell the so called sparky that Screwfix which guaranteed is where he got the Consumer Unit from also sell rubbish bins and he should buy one then PUT ALL HIS TOOLS INTO IT
 
My eyes are still bleeding from looking at those pics....Absolutely disgusting install, Tell the so called sparky that Screwfix which guaranteed is where he got the Consumer Unit from also sell rubbish bins and he should buy one then PUT ALL HIS TOOLS INTO IT
Lol what's up with getting the unit from Screwfix? They're cheap.

Not saying you're doing this, but i always see those in the trade especially commercial sparks laughing at those who use Screwfix, but then go in CEF and pay 20% more for the exact same thing. I find it odd.
 
I thought 10mm was better for cooker? Now I know its 6mm I take it I should stay away from installing an induction hob when fitting the kitchen!
Others have already answered this as "it is fine" but the more detailed reason is for domestic cookers (not commercial kitchen!) the approved diversity calculation for the cable & supply protection rating is 10A plus 30% of remainder, or more detailed:

Required rating 10A + 0.3 * (load - 10A) + 5A if kettle socket present.

So a 32A MCB/RCBO along with 6mm cable is good to 10 + (32 - 15) / 0.3 for the cooker = 66A = 15kW cooker

Basically once a cooker gets up to temperature all of the elements cycle on/off to regulate things so the load drops dramatically, and domestic chefs are not in the habit of whacking everything on at once to pre-heat for the near continuous use that a commercial chef would have.
 
A mate of mine is the manager of a wholesalers and they get joe public and some supposedly qualified sparks asking them what they need to do various electrical jobs and talking to other wholesalers it is becoming more common to be asked what they reccommend for jobs
 
A mate of mine is the manager of a wholesalers and they get joe public and some supposedly qualified sparks asking them what they need to do various electrical jobs and talking to other wholesalers it is becoming more common to be asked what they reccommend for jobs
Which is worrying, given that wholesalers may have good knowledge of the products they sell (or have had manufacturer 'training' on), but don't in my experience have much knowledge about regulations or what is needed to do a compliant install.
 
I am giving BG the benefit of the doubt not a bad panel it does have a level built in !
They aren't awful - I think they suffer some by selling most of their stock through the sheds.

I used to use their plastic ones by preference, but the metal ones are VERY solid, to the point that removing knockouts can be a real pita sometimes. They also have some odd design choices on their knockout location (on the last generation at least)

Any brand can be installed badly - but I guess that BG are the ones most likely to be installed badly since they are the cheapest and most available option to those who are most likely to install it badly...
 
Which is worrying, given that wholesalers may have good knowledge of the products they sell (or have had manufacturer 'training' on), but don't in my experience have much knowledge about regulations or what is needed to do a compliant install.
I forgot to point out they offer no advice on what to use for a particular job but may offer alternatives if the customer asks for a particular product and they have a number of different items in stock
 
I forgot to point out they offer no advice on what to use for a particular job but may offer alternatives if the customer asks for a particular product and they have a number of different items in stock
Some of them can be a good source of knowledge on products for sure, certainly compared to Screwfix staff!

Probably know best which lights/accessories don't come back often too, as it's in their interest.

But then there is always the risk that they are on a higher percentage on certain makes.
 
Some of them can be a good source of knowledge on products for sure, certainly compared to Screwfix staff!

Probably know best which lights/accessories don't come back often too, as it's in their interest.

But then there is always the risk that they are on a higher percentage on certain makes.
Very true. I have found the guys at my local Holland House to be helpful, they will get any stuff I specifically ask for, but often have suggestions of alternatives that they stock and have little problems with which occasionally turn out to be better than my original idea.
 
Just to add to your question, it may help it may not. I am one of the end terrace of a terrace of 7. We are all on a looped supply, 1 loop comes up my side wall splits to mine then feeds 2 other properties so 3 of the 7 from the incoming loop on my wall, then the remaining 4 in the terrace are looped together on a separate incoming loop on the end of the wall of the other end terrace the other side.

Its a rubber incoming cable with 2 cores. The earthing arrangement has always been like this.


I have also attached a photo of the setup before he came in and installed the new CU
View attachment 98921

On another note regards the loop, have a look at these pictures and see how dangerous this looks to you

View attachment 98922View attachment 98923View attachment 98924View attachment 98925
DANGER DANGER DANGER
Phone 105 NOW and state you have bare damaged supply cables.
 
Update.

I did ring the DNO, Northern Powergrid, I explained on the phone about the cables being bare, they asked me to email pictures (the exact ones I posted on here) within 45 minutes someone came out to look at them, within 2 hours of that, they (DNO) were digging up the garden and replacing it, So it has been replaced.

DANGER DANGER DANGER
Phone 105 NOW and state you have bare damaged supply cables.
 

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