jgaircraft
DIY
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Hi,
To give a bit of background, it is a Lincat ESLR9 electric cooker. It is very simple design with two fans and two elements.
Two weeks ago the cooker made a bang and tripped the consumer unit, upon inspection I could see that the contactor appeared burnt-out and a wire on a heating element was loose and burnt also, with signs of arcing on the connector. The contactor fitted was a IMO MB09-F-00.
I replaced the contactor with this unit from Ebay:
and replaced the heating element and replaced the female spade end connector.
Unfortunately the replacement contactor has burnt-out also, even though it is the part number stated in the manual and the oven is listed in the advert, perhaps it isn't the correct part?
My theory is the poor connection method of the replacement contactor? The original (IMO unit) had sturdy spade end connectors for good contact, the replacement, feeble little spring type terminals where the wire is shoved in and held loosely by a weak clamp (felt loose and could pull the wire out easily).
I'm thinking this might be causing high resistance/heat and hence overcurrent, but I'm not an electrical engineer and I might be overlooking something else. What to you think?
Regards
James
To give a bit of background, it is a Lincat ESLR9 electric cooker. It is very simple design with two fans and two elements.
Two weeks ago the cooker made a bang and tripped the consumer unit, upon inspection I could see that the contactor appeared burnt-out and a wire on a heating element was loose and burnt also, with signs of arcing on the connector. The contactor fitted was a IMO MB09-F-00.
I replaced the contactor with this unit from Ebay:
LINCAT CO215 CONTACTOR 230V 22A FRYER GRIDDLE OVEN RANGE STEAMER GRIDDLE OVEN | eBay
LINCAT Part Number: CO215. Resistive Load: 22A. Electric Oven Ranges OE8008, OE8010, OE8016. Electrical Solid Top Range OE8015. Length: 70mm. Number of Poles: 3.
www.ebay.co.uk
and replaced the heating element and replaced the female spade end connector.
Unfortunately the replacement contactor has burnt-out also, even though it is the part number stated in the manual and the oven is listed in the advert, perhaps it isn't the correct part?
My theory is the poor connection method of the replacement contactor? The original (IMO unit) had sturdy spade end connectors for good contact, the replacement, feeble little spring type terminals where the wire is shoved in and held loosely by a weak clamp (felt loose and could pull the wire out easily).
I'm thinking this might be causing high resistance/heat and hence overcurrent, but I'm not an electrical engineer and I might be overlooking something else. What to you think?
Regards
James